Chassis prep for blasting.

Tajman

I am nearly at the stage where I would like to maybe get the chassis blasted, has been suggested bead blasting. Having removed the deck/body, clutch cable tube, most of the brake pipes, I will take out the engine and heat exchangers. I would like to take off the Springs( 2 of which are out of their locating base discs) remove the dampers for checking and refurb/replace and remove all four broken rusted limiting straps. You need to get the shockers off to replace the straps. Question;- will I have trouble with the "swinging arms" dropping down and making manouvering the wheeled chassis a problem? Could I rig up something temporary? Also whats best to replace the limiting straps with , new spares or alternative.? Thanks.

heinkeljb

If you still want to move the chassis around without shocks / springs on it, just make four pieces of wood the same length as the shocks and bolt them in place of the shocks. Springs can be taken out if the limit straps are broken, just by using the weight of the wheels to pull the swing arm down to their full extent without the shocks attached. Getting the bottom bolt out from the shocks can be tricky, plenty of Plus Gas (best releasing fluid) before hand should help.
The straps can be replaced with all sorts of alternatives if you don't want to buy new - Haflinger Tecknik might have some, Ebay some times lists them, European suppliers should have them. Alternatives include chain, Seat belt webbing, Steel cable, so you decide.

John

Tajman

Thanks, John. I already have invested lots of dosh in Plus Gas company! Yes I anticipate those bolts will be a problem. Great suggestion about the wood\shocks replacement. My kind of technology having been a wooden boat builder for some time. Also done a lot of rigging so may look at alternative limit strap replacements depending on my budget. Wonder what loading they take. Could probably work it out if I count the wire strands and check the spec for that size wire.

Have been enjoying your informative posts. regards

Jeff.

heinkeljb

Post any other queries you have and we will do our best to answer them.

John 

heinkeljb

If you are going to "blast" the running gear now that you have it exposed, just make sure who ever does it uses very low power "soft" material and that if you don't dismantle down to the last nut and bolt, that all holes are properly sealed. Blasting material gets in everywhere and cleaning it out is essential if you want your new Haflinger to work properly without causing you more grief later on in your ownership!
I know, you already know all that - but it is worth repeating!

John

Tajman

Update on progress, preparing chassis. As you stated John, getting the bottom bolt out from the rear shockers was to say the least , a hassle. After they sheared off I had to cut the bolts and try to drift the remains out also tried some heat but realised the "casting" that holds the welded in tube is hollow. This fact made me realise I had to treat it with some respect, so I put away the small sledge hammer and as is always a good plan - slept on the problem till the next day. Anyway one came out and I think it remains that I shall have to drill out the 25-30 mm left in the right rear side.  See Picture.

I wonder about what the bolts are for replacement. I think they must be high tensile and they seem to be chrome coated.  The heads appear to be marked in raised letters MVS 8G.

The shock absorbers ,although with surface rust are all dry and with a hand test , off the job, seem to operate ok.

I have my Wagenstrammkarte now , the vehicle is 1967 MK 2. with a webber carb, 2.22 , 47mph hubs. 145x12 tyres (all cream crackered) and an old type platform, tank at rear.

Tomorrow, drill out whats left of stud and take engine out. So far as I can see, it is only 4 bolts on the housing, cheers for now.

heinkeljb

Obviously disconnect any ancillaries before you try and remove the engine. Depending one how high up you have things you might have to lift the rear end a bit in order to clear the oil cooler. There is just enough room for the engine to come straight back of the clutch / gearbox main shaft (what ever you do DON't let the engine hang on that shaft!!
Support trh engine all the way back till it is clear before you try and drop it out from under the platform.
Oh! I have just remembered - you have already taken the platform off - Still DON'T let the engine hang on the shaft as you will bend it and then it will wreck your clutch and gearbox if you use it!!!
Drilling the remains of the remains of the bolt out will be the safest way of dealing with the issue. Dale at Haflinger Technik should have replacements.

John
 

Tajman

Now I have all the shocks off and the springs and broken studs drilled out. Engine removed no problem. Brake pipes removed etc.

After the deck/body was removed I pushed the wheeled chassis into the garage. Now I can't move it. I jacked up the rear up and the rear wheels turn in opposite directions, not conducive to forward movement! I then jacked up the front and when I try to turn the front wheels, it seems all 4 wheels wish to turn. Now I first checked that the drive shaft turned by hand to prove that it was out of gear, then operated the various levers sticking out of the gearboxes- must be the diff locks and 4x4 stuff. I have yet to find the right combination that allows freewheel. Being new to Haflinger's brilliant off road ability, I must have missed something or doing something wrong. Suggestions welcome.

Also in this post I would like to mention that I got a spare engine with the vehicle, but not quite the same as the one installed. See photos, the ID number is 5261874. Anyone able to identify and give information about it?

Thanks again in anticipation.

Jeff

heinkeljb

Your "spare" engine is a DHSS mobility vehicle engine - You might know it as an "Invacar" - they were blue narrow 3 wheel vehicle designed foe wheel chair users. Engine is 500cc and although the same basic engine as a Haflinger engine, being only 500cc and with a different cam, they don't work to well in a Haflinger as a standard engine. A few people have taken the bottom end, which is the same as a Haf's and bore the holes for the cylinders to take a larger diameter barrel. Then you have to find suitable pistons, might have to machine the heads to fit the new barrels etc. So quite a lot of work involved.

Fix you original engine, it will be easier!  

On the front diff - (always as you are looking forward from the rear of the vehicle) on the right hand side is the front diff lock, Pull the pin out, now the diff is locked and both wheels will turn at the same speed together.
Now move to the 4 wheel drive link, this is the lever at the front of the main tube. move the lever on the tube down, this will dis-engage the drive shaft so front and back diffs are independent.

On the diff pull the pin out to lock the diff so both wheels turn together, Will make it more difficult to push the chassis, but at least all the wheels will turn in the same direction rather than working as a differential and one going forward and one going backwards.

John

morgac

Hi John, regarding the invacar engine , do you know what the difference is between the haflinger and invacar camshaft, I have 2 invacar engines stripped down and one haflinger all 3  have number 5 stamped on the camshaft, If they are different I will have to check the one I have in the car at the moment ,Regards    Clive.

heinkeljb

A number 5 cam shaft is the one to have in a Haf engine. Basically, it's the latest Cam shaft so should give the best performance for the engine. 
So check the current engine and if need be change the Cam for a number 5!

John 

heinkeljb

Invacar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRUaHuF7Fm4

John