Some Questions from a New Owner

1. I'm looking for the left hand threaded "male" part of the handbrake cable adjuster. Haflinger Technik don't have one. Does anyone have one (I could make an M7 LH thread but buying one would be easier).

2. I read somewhere that more than a thousand Haffys were imported to the UK, I know it's impossible to be accurate, but what would be an educated guess of how many running Haflingers are in the UK? When I go to shows everyone seems to ask.

3. Does anyone have one /two (cheap) back seats for sale /barter? I've got the "lids" I just need seats to go on them. Rear or front seats would be fine I can repair /adapt to suit. Or know of something thats pretty close from another kind of vehicle?

4. Has anyone tried connecting a plug for a plug-in top up battery charger (e.g. Optimate) to leave the battery connected to the vehicle while it charges? I've done it with more 1980's vehicles but they don't have dynastarts and electo-mechanical voltage regulators.

5. Is there a modern equivalent for the electro-mechanical voltage regulator, is it worth having? 

6. I'm having occasional problems when the engine gets fully up to temperature it splutters and misses and I have to open the throttle hard to get it running right. The hotter it gets the worse it gets. In the summer on a very hot day it cut out in the fields. It restarted ok after it had cooled down. Do Haflingers have any known weaknesses in this area that I should be looking at? 

Thanks for any help and suggestions, Haflingers are a new subject to me. 


  • Welcome to the world of Haflingers! You'll find lots of idiosyncrasies to deal with when you have one!
    No time right now to answer every question, but it would be very easy and wise to connect a quick release connection for a battery charger as unless you are going to drive it every day, the battery will slowly drain.
    There are a couple of electronic version of the voltage regulator and yes, if your one is malfunctioning then they are a good replacement, but other than to replace a faulty one, the original ones work quite well.
    Sounds like you are having heat vaporisation problems. You could try the following to see if it helps. Re-route the fuel pipe hose from the pump to the carb, so it is behind the carb. Also you can put a blanking plate in the left hand side carb  pre-heat pipe.


  • I would suggest you put in a battery power switch. The sort that allows you to disconnect the battery completely from the rest of the wiring loom by removing a key. Place it somewhere which is easy to get to but tucked out of the way for normal use. E.G. side of the battery box or some people use the space just behind the four wheel drive lever. That way, you can park up at home, disconnect the battery completely and plug in a battery saver charger so next time you come to use the Haf (lets be honest here - there might be long periods when it is not used), the battery is fully charged.

    This place sells an electronic voltage regulator and it is small enough to fit inside the original mechanical voltage regulators case.
    The do two sorts - bare and already fitted in a case. I have one on Lurch and it works really well. Having said that if you mechanical one is working correctly, why change it?

    Some pictures of you Haflinger would be nice - they all seem to very individual. Not seen two exactly the same unless they were restored by the same person at the same time.

  • Sorry I can't help with 1,2 or 3, but
    4. Yes, have used a C-Tek one. Does not cause any issues with dynastart or regulator.
    5. Yes, do a search for Bosch F026T02204. It is a modern equivalent, all electronic with no moving parts, and looks absolutely identical to the original part. Pricey though!
    6. I would try a new condenser, and beware, there are a lot of poor quality (new) parts available.
  • Document I have seen says 945 Halingers brought into the country, but obviously you also have private imports so the number maybe slightly higher.
    Probably less than 300 left even if you include paper ones.

  • John, I'll try the heat vapourisation fixes first. I had been wondering why the exhaust system is so complex but now I see. If I took the two preheat pipes off at the junction at the carburettor would I be able to see through the from one pipe into the other? (I have a single venturi webber).
    Pictures; I'm going to try to post some in the gallery.
  • The Carb sits on the manifold block, there are four pipes that exit the manifold block. Two deliver fuel / air mixture to the cylinder heads.

    All mentions of left or right assume you are at the rear of the vehicle and are looking towards the front of the vehicle.

    The left cylinder exhaust gas is split under engine. A branch goes up and joins the front most pipe going to the Carb manifold block, it exits on the right hand side of the Carb manifold block having supplied some heat to the manifold block. It continues along the pipe on the right hand side to underneath the engine where it joins up again with the pipe from the left hand cylinder along with the pipe from the right hand cylinder before going to the silencer and exiting.

    In order to stop the exhaust gas from reaching the Carb, all you have to do is undo the two 10mm nuts on the front most pipe that comes from the Carb on the left hand side of the Manifold block. Slide a piece of aluminium sheet between the two flanges (Cut and shaped with two 8mm holes obviously). Tighten the two 10mm nuts to make the joint secure again and you have effectively cut off the hot exhaust gas which would provide Carb pre heat - which you might need again in the winter!

    Other than the fact the pipes leading into the Carb mainfold block are curved, yes, you could see through from one side of the block to the other.

    I would not cut those two pipes off as another benefit of having them is the structural support they give to the Carb!

  • Thanks John, and I've posted some photos for you in the gallery.
    Any ideas on the other questions on the list?

    Links to European suppliers of Haflinger parts. The last one is the handbrake rod half moon 7mm adjuster - don't forget there is a 7mm lock nut to put on afterwards (not really required, but shown in the parts book)
  • Thanks John, I've managed to get the handbrake part. Just need to fit it now. And while it's apart probably take the rear drums off and grease the bits of handbrake that live in there. The left one sometimes sticks on a bit if going backwards. 
    Also I've done the blanking off of the preheat pipe, yet to be tested. If it's not that, I'll try the capacitor as ShyTed suggests. 
  • Handbrake parts all fitted and working, bit of a struggle as they seem a bit short, but perhaps something needs adjusting at the drums. It was all already greased, so I didn't take it apart. The reason the brake stuck on in reverse was mud etc in the drum combined with insufficient release on the handbrake mechanism (two clicks at the handle). The holes for letting water out of the drums were clogged and the oil rings were overwhelmed by crud. It's all been cleaned out now and the new parts allow four clicks at the handle. 
    Also I've blanked off the carb preheat pipe and will see how it goes over the spring and summer. 
  • Most common reasons for bad handbrake are:-

    The outside arms which the cable fits into are 1 spline out.
    The intermediate operating arm has worn the internal end of the operating rod that goes through the brake back plate. Solved by adding some weld to the edge to build it up again and filing to get get the shape back again. This is the "L" shaped bit on the rod that pushes on the arm coming from the brake shoe.
    Make sure you have a chamfer on BOTH edges of the brake shoes, not just the leading edge. This will help with the sticking when going in reverse when everything is full of crud.

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