Pannel replacement.

edited January 2015 in TECHNICAL
Hi guy's, anyone had to replace their flat-bed pannels on their haffy? If so, what did you use as would be nice to keep a similar sort of profile to the original!




  • You can apparently buy a whole new platform from one of the European Suppliers, ( I can't remember which one off the top of my head).

    Dale at HaflingerTeknik advertise new panels, whether that includes panels for the platform, I don't know, but an email or phone call to him would soon sort that question out!


  • Cheers John, I have had a look on the HaflingerTeknik website but se
  • *but seems to no longer be showing a parts inventory
  • I don't think they bother very much about keeping the web site up to date, I seem to remember it saying they stock a full set of reproduction panels, but that was some time ago.

    I think you would be better off either sending an email or to phone.

    Email would probably be preferred.

  • Hi Guys, I bought a complete platform from Haflinger Teknik about a year ago , it was great quality but quite expensive, my haflinger is a 1962 SWB and the original platform was beyond repair, Teknik do stock repair panels and will supply the platform as a kit for you to weld up yourself, but there is a lot of spot welding to do.
    Good luck with the project.
  • Cheers for that Morgac i will bare it in mind.

  • if you get a metal bender, you can make up all the flat panels with the ribs in. A bit tedious but it gives exactly the same appearance as the original. Only cost is a welder, bender and the metal. You can also make up the side beams, but will usually need to weld up to give you the required length unless you have access to a commercial metal bender. I've done three Haffys like that now. The only really tricky bit on a haf is the compound curved  bit at the bottom of the engine bay side.
  • @peter_m cheers for the tip, im looking into all options at the mo!


  • Chris,

    New sheet steel welded in place of the sieves you had before is looking good, Might be an idea whilst you are in a good position to make a good job of them, would be to to put a couple of drain holes in the front foot wells. If you made them a suitable size you could "stopper" them with rubber grommets which would stop the wet feet, but allow you to wash out the foot wells easily.

    Accumulated mud and damp is what caused you to have to replace that area in the first place, So making it cleanable will stop that from happening in the future.

  • Hi Chris, thanks for posting more photos, in the original front footwells there are drain holes at either side, but as John says a few more in the bottom will also be usefull, if you have rear footwells they also have a drain hole in the floor but only very small, we have enlarged these on our Haf' for better draining.
    Regards Pete
  • John cheers, i had actually thought about doing this as it happens, the section of footwell's I have replaced, has been done with galvanized steel, although had to ground the edges away for welding they should hopefully stay resistant to the damp and wet for the lifetime of the Haf. Also Pete, I have kept the original section i cut out to use as a template for the holes to be put back in, its really coming together now, the chassis is away and has been blasted and painted top to bottom! My dad has had the brake shoes away for re-lining, and he will re-assemble when we get the chassis back! we did however manage to snap studs in the brake cylinders on all 4 of them, we have managed to extract 2 and save them, but looks like we will be on the hunt for replacements for the others.....Dont suppose any of you guys know the name of the green colour mine was originally?
  • H Chris, looking at your photos on the gallery the green colour of your Haf ' isn't a standard Haf ' colour, so can't help you with that one, if you want to paint it a standard colour I think John will know better than me as all our Hafs and Pinzgauers are painted Swiss Army Green  Regards Pete
  • How about some commentary on what you have done, plan on doing?

  • Hi John, apologies for my absence, the Haffy has come so far since we last spoke,the running gear -  new brakes all round, required pins / bushes etc replaced, all shot blasted and painted back up in a semi gloss grey! looks really well!
    As for the bodywork... after ENDLESS amounts of welding its 95% complete, only wanting a few odds and ends done to finish it off, then its off for painting before re-assembly commences, I managed to find a generic van floor panel that i have used to make a rear panel up for a section that was totally shot, the match to the original contours is somewhat remarkable considering the panel was only £30. It also has 4 new shockers on it as the original ones were totally goosed. The wiring harness i removed when dis-assembling was in a terrible state, so im going to make a new one from scratch when the time comes. 
    I will endevour to get some photos up over the weekend so you can see how its going!
    Take care, Chris.
  • edited April 2015
    Hi Chris, thanks for your update, sounds like its coming along nicely, looking forward to the photos, 
    keep up the good work.  Regards Pete
  • Hi Chris,
    Sounds like you have been busy! (and have deep pockets) 

    When you come to do the wiring, my pet issue is the fact you can't take the dash out very far because the original wires are short. I know you don't want coils of extra wire to have to tie up out of the way on the off chance you need to look behind the dash.

    So one way out of that issue would be to fit a multi way plug and socket where the main wiring loom comes out of the metal channel and up into the front cone. That way you can just unplug the wiring and take off the whole front or just the dash as you please. Make sure it is a waterproof multiway plug if you do decide to go this route.

  • John - a multi way plug would have been a great addition to my recent re-wire. In fact I would also have added 2 or 3 other (smaller) ones where the wires go back out to the headlights etc etc as those too can cause issues with pulling the dash forward to fault find.

  • John what a great idea that is! to be honest the wiring harness giving me trouble with access in the future had never even crossed my mind! I have just dropped the front of the haffy off to be blasted this morning as in the past it has been bodged around the headlight ressess and needs a few bits and pieces welded up before its good to go again, In the mean time i shall finish off all the odds and sodds of welding i mentioned to keep me busy. 
    I like the deep pockets comment! but to be honest, including purchase, i dont even think it stands me £1500 yet! im hoping to have it finished for maybe a little over £2000. Perhaps im been optimistic but it shouldnt be much more if any. The only two big outlays left will be the painting of the body and i will need a canvas roof made up for it. 
  • You haven't even scratched the surface of your pockets yet! =))

    Wait till you get to the drive train! 

    The canvas roof could easily set you back a Grand if you have a full length one made by some one good.

    If you are going to make a new wiring loom from scratch and have the platform off etc. Maybe you should consider fitting a multi way plugs in the engine bay as well, If done correctly would make taking the engine out simpler and would allow any of the other electrical items to be disconnected and removed without having undo screws on the electrical fittings each time.

    Just make sure any multi way plugs and sockets are the sort which are waterproof! Buy yourself one of those label makers you plug into your PC and then you can label everything as well!

  • luckily the drive train is all in good working order! had it for a quick spin prior to dis-assembly! al be it the brakes were none existant ( which have now all been replaced ) and a seal on the N/S/F corner which is slightly leaking, other than that it was a ''dream'' to drive, all be it a rather unpleasant dream LOL. I already know a guy who has had a canvas roof made for his haffy and its a cracking job, he even has a copy of the plans for it, and only set him back around £400, so im hoping for around the same sort of price. To be honest, now im realising what kind of money these haffys can run into, im starting to think i got somewhat of a bargain with mine ( £500 ) considering it ran, in a fashion, and was pretty much all there with the exception of the holes in it! 
    Im going to get looking into these multi plugs, think its a great idea, Hopefully this week i will get the last of all the welding fettled. Will be like a weight has been lifted. 


  • Chris,

    If you can get a full length canvas top for £400 ~ £500, then let me know of the plans and the contact - I could do with a LWB version!

  • Not a problem John, just bare with me as i will be re-assembling before i take it for the roof! will keep you in the loop though!

  • Original dimensions for which bit and for which vehicle? We need to know exactly which bit you require dimensions for or you will get dimensions for the the wheel stud spacing (which is 98x4 if you didn't know). 

    The longer side rail would probably be of more use as you could cut one in two sections to make the front part of the platform and have a join like the original just behind the cabin.

  • I might be interested in a length for the rear cross member, but will check today. Where are you based, sibrysmi ?
  • Julian,

    You would still need to do some work on it for the rear section is different from the sides and the front. It has the section cut out and re-shaped for the rear number plate lights and to allow the rear flap to open.

    Would not be a huge amount of work, but certainly on par with having to cut out the old rear cross member and weld in a new one.

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