Soon for sale.

edited November 2015 in LINKS
Right guys, with a heavy heart I will soon be forced to part ways with my 700AP Haffy.

I would like advice as to what its worth please.

Its a 95% complete RUNNING project.

Parts required to finish will be.....

Canvas roof and door work.

little bits of trim to finish off here and there.

Heres whats been done.

Body removed from chassis. Shot blasted back to bare metal, all rust removed, rebuilt to a very solid state, compromising of many...many hours work.

Chassis shot blasted right back, each corner stripped and inspected, rebuilt with 4 x new shock absorbers, all brakes renewed, all brake lines renewed, new brake cylinder, and finally painted in Bomag grey. looks really well.

Body work painted freshly in Nato green and refitted to chassis. 

Complete replacement of ALL wiring. - everything works 100%

Replacement headlights.

Replacement rear lights.

Brand new battery box.

Brand new Tool box.

Seats re trimmed as new.

New clutch cable.

New speedo cable.

The list goes on. 

You can see in the gallery 'durham hafflinger' the state it was in. I will upload more photos so you can see how it is now.

Engine jumps straight into life.

Log book present along with extensive photographs / paperwork.

Anyone interested can of course view.


  • edited November 2015
    Shame, you haven't even tried driving it yet!

  • I know john, its the work gone into it that makes it hard to part with.

    What do you think its value is as it stands?

  • That's always going to be a difficult one to answer. At the end of the day, it is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it.

    Having said that, when they do come up for sale - see European web sites, as they tend to be the nice restored ones! They tend to offer them for ~ £5000 ~ £10000, whether they sell at those prices, who knows.

    I would suggest you start out higher and bring the price down if necessary - how long you leave it at a given price will always be a "pot luck" choice.

    Obviously the top prices are for roadworthy vehicles, even small things that prevent the vehicle having a valid MOT when you sell will bring the price down.

  • cheer John, and thanks for all your help throughout the build.
  • John, just to let you know, yesterday i bled the brakes on the Haffy, and decided to treat myself to a spin around the block. which lead to a few more after that. You were right, it would have been a shame not to drive it prior to sale.
    Engine has a few flat spots, think carb and ignition require tweaking. Will get onto it at some point.
    Was a great feeling after all the work that has gone into it, to finally see it move under its own steam!
  • OK, so back from a couple of weeks holiday ion South Africaand catching up on forum posts, emails etc. 

    Now that you have driven it, how long are you going to keep it before parting with it? Long enough to sort the few engine issues and get it MOTed? If you keep it that long, you could run it during the wither and hope you have some snow to play in!

  • Hi John, I dont plan on running it, its unmarked in its present condition, just listed it on ebay, please tell me what you think of the details / price of it.


  • Hi Chris, It presents very well, and I hope you get a good price for it. Sadly it is too similar to my 1962 SWB for me to want to buy it!

    My only critical comment (you did ask!) would be that I would be sorely tempted to re-route the brake pipe coming up and out of the master cylinder; IIRC it is only a fairly loose push fit join there, and the chances of kicking it where it comes up & over the steering box casting is high.
  • Hi Chris,
    Looks nice, very different from your first pictures of it!

    As pointed out already. The brake fluid pipe originally comes up from the master cylinder and does a 90 degree bend towards the front of the Haflinger and runs just above the master cylinder so the pipe is protected by the steering box.

    The other thing that I think would be a good item to get in order to ensure the work you have done does not fail, would be the front differential guard which goes from the footwell under the front differential. This actually helps make the whole of the front section behave like a big box section and therefore prevents the weight of the cab from bending the platform downwards in front of the suspension / seat mountings.

    Have you tried getting an MOT on it as it stands? Even if it fails, the fail list would be a good thing to hand to a new owner.

  • Hi guys, cheers for the advice, a very valid point with regard to the brake line, it had never crossed my mind, then again the originals were not present when i bought it so it was guess work really! John, im pleased you mentioned the diff guard, because believe it or not i have it!!! and had forgot to re fit it! I will get it down from the garage rafters tomorrow and blow the cobwebs off it! 
    Also John, do you remember a few months back when i was working on the dynastart and having issues with it charging? well i believe the cause of problem to have been a faulty battery! I changed the battery a few weeks ago and it began charging immediatly, so maybe a high resistance through the old battery, or a cell going open circuit could have been a possible cause all along? either way a slight dab on the throttle and the charge light goes out, followed by almost 14 volts across the new battery. The latest hurdle i encountered, was failure of the lift pump, I tryd to make one good from two bad ones, however it proved unsuccessful, so in the end ive opted for an electic unit, it starts far better on it aswel. 
  • Chris,

    Glad you have the diif guard, it is an essential part of the vehicle, even if it only protects the diff! The steering relay arm is the first thing that would get damaged and then no steering!

    Duff battery could as you say have an effect on the charging system as the regulator uses the battery voltage as a comparison - Have you had the old battery "drop tested"? It should work correctly if the battery can keep it's voltage above about 10 / 11 volts.

    Just going by voltage alone is sometimes misleading. Do you have an ammeter that is capable of showing atleast 20 amp + /- ? You would know for certain if it was charging if you got 14 odd volts AND 2 to 10 amp on the ammeter!

    The problem really revolves around the fact that, although the Dynastart is rated at 240 watts at 14 volts (P=I x v so 240/14 = 17amps, 249/12 = 20amps). This is obviously is a maximum you can get from it "cold". As it warms up from both electrical resistance and engine bay heat the output will drop - probably down to a usable 15 / 16 amps. As people start adding mod con, phone chargers, electric fuel pumps, bigger bulbs for better lighting etc - you could be running out of electrical power!

    I hope you have gone for a low PSI pump ~ 2 - 2.5 PSI as more than that is likely to cause flooding of the float bowl after a while.

  • Well, that was quick  B-)
  • Hi John, yes I have a very small electric pump on there, pressure sensing aswell, so once it sees a resistance to flow it shuts its self off, sort of self gouverning.

    I do have an ammeter John, however i was convinced it was charging as the battery was low and after a few blasts up and down the street its back to full health! with all the lights on,  not the most scientific proof, however i have sold the haffy to a guy from london so i have turned my attention to getting the handbrake cable fitted as i agreed this prior to sale. 

    I cant believe the interest it generated, after 24 hours it had 55 watchers and 500+ views!!! what would it have had it the auction ran its full course?

    Anyway the guy whom has bought it seems very genuine and im sure will be on here before to long, stepping into my shoes. Hes sending transport for it this week, hes bought it without even viewing it!!! must be keen! then again his dad owned a polycarb, and hes wanted a haffy ever since! 

    I will speak to you again once its sold, just to check-out with the site, and thank everyone for there help and support throughout the build. 

    Kind Regards,

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